As often happens when the nights draw in, I’ve recently found myself rewatching Downton Abbey while cooking. Or pairing socks. Or trying out my new walking pad.
I need to get out more.
ANYWAY. My visit to Raby Castle couldn’t have come at a better time, having just watched one of those classic Christmas episodes where we get to see how the festive season unfolds both upstairs and downstairs.
And that’s pretty much what Raby Castle is offering this Christmas, albeit without the family dramas, complicated romantic entanglements and Maggie Smith delivering devastating one-liners.
Following the success of last year’s festive opening – the first time the castle had welcomed Christmas visitors in 50 years – the County Durham landmark has once again thrown open its doors for a journey through an Edwardian Christmas Day.
And what a lovely job they’ve done.
Eleven rooms have been transformed to tell the story of Christmas at Raby, from the excitement of opening stockings beside the fire to the preparations for a grand family dinner and the celebrations that followed.
There are beautifully decorated trees, greenery, twinkling lights and all sorts of thoughtful touches, with pieces from the castle’s historic collection helping to bring the story to life.
But, much as I enjoyed imagining myself sweeping through the grander rooms in a fabulous Edwardian frock, I couldn’t help thinking that downstairs looked like the more fun place to spend Christmas.
The Servants’ Hall is one of two new additions to this year’s experience, and it’s an absolute treat.
Paper chains hang from the ceiling, greenery dresses the table and the whole room has the sort of homespun festive charm that makes you want to gather everyone you know for a proper yuletide knees-up.
I came away with some serious decorating inspiration. Giant paper chains are now very much on the Christmas crafternoon agenda at our house for 2026.
The other new downstairs attraction is the historic kitchen, where designer Tom Le Bon and his team at BOSUN Studio have used animated projections to bring some of Raby’s old Christmas recipes to life.
Apparently, the castle archives contain some rather unusual culinary suggestions, and the installation has a sense of humour about the whole business.
Upstairs, Tom’s team has also introduced a new experience in the Octagon Drawing Room, using lighting and sound to conjure up the atmosphere of a festive drinks party. The effects play across the room’s chandelier, adding another layer to an already rather spectacular setting. (If there was an Edwardian Barbie, she’d be in her element!)
The whole experience is a delightful invitation to wander through Christmas past, imagining the people who lived and worked in these rooms and the very different ways they would have celebrated.
And there are plenty of opportunities to bring a little of the Raby Christmas spirit home.
I picked up a couple of baubles in the gift shop and, more importantly, made sure our living room would soon smell like the Raby Castle Library.
Before heading home, I also stopped for lunch and had a bowl of butternut squash, cauliflower and lemongrass soup which I haven’t stopped thinking about since.
So, between the decorations, the history, the excellent soup and the prospect of making my house smell considerably grander than it actually is, Raby has done a very good job of getting me into the Christmas spirit.
Find out more about the extensive Christmas programme including flower workshops, festive afternoon teas and visits to Santa at Raby Castle via the website.