Leaving Hjem for a new home
Six years after opening Restaurant Hjem in rural Northumberland, Alex Nietosvuori and Ally Thompson-Nietosvuori reflect on what they built - and what comes next
When Alex Nietosvuori and Ally Thompson-Nietosvuori opened a fine dining restaurant in the Northumberland village of Wall in May 2019, they were clear about what they wanted to achieve: a restaurant rooted in place, season and identity, offering a level of cooking more commonly associated with cities than rural villages.
Based in the longstanding Hadrian Pub, Restaurant Hjem opened its doors in May 2019, named for the word that means ‘home’ in both Swedish and Northumbrian dialect. It was an intentional choice, reflecting Alex’s Scandinavian heritage and Ally’s North East roots, but also their shared ambition to create something new together.
What followed over the next six years was a journey defined by creativity, resilience and growth - culminating in Northumberland’s first Michelin star, awarded just 18 months after opening.
Looking back now, as Hjem enjoys a six-month residency at South Causey Inn, in County Durham - and work continues on their next permanent home, Restaurant Freyja - both Alex and Ally speak warmly about what those years in Wall gave them.
“Hjem will always have a special place in our story,” says Ally. “It was our first restaurant - where we learned how to run a business, how to lead a team, and how to look after people properly. We grew up there, professionally and personally.”
For Alex, Hjem offered something equally important: a platform. “It gave me the chance to express myself as a chef,” he reflects. “To cook the food I wanted to cook, to develop ideas over time, and to really understand what kind of restaurant I wanted to build.”
That understanding was forged through long days, high pressure and constant problem-solving. The restaurant’s ambition was always clear, but delivering it in a small, rural setting came with challenges - logistical, financial and emotional. Still, the rewards outweighed the difficulties.
“The highs were incredible,” Ally says. “And the lows taught us a lot. You don’t get a week where nothing happens in hospitality - but you learn to deal with it, together.”
One of the most joyful interludes came in the wake of the Covid lockdowns, when Alex and Ally launched Hjem Vin - an outdoor pop-up in the pub’s back garden. It was conceived as a response to uncertainty, but quickly became something much more: an oasis of small plates, thoughtful wines, sunshine and huge smiles.
“Hjem Vin felt like a release,” Ally remembers. “People were desperate to be together again, to eat and drink and enjoy themselves. There was such a sense of warmth - it reminded us why we do this in the wake of such a precarious time for the whole hospitality industry.”
That spirit of adaptability and care has always extended to the team. From day one, keeping people employed, supported and growing has been central to how Alex and Ally operate - a value that shaped their next move as Hjem came to a close at the end of 2025.
With Restaurant Freyja under construction in the grounds of Close House in Wylam - and autumn opening is planned - they knew they didn’t want an extended pause between chapters. Instead, they sought something purposeful - a way to keep the team together, continue developing ideas, and remain connected to guests.
The opportunity came in the form of a six-month residency at South Causey Inn, where Hjem opens proper to the public on February 4. Operating from The Farmhouse on site, the restaurant offers both à la carte dining and tasting menus, bringing the team’s signature style to a new corner of the North East.
“It’s been really refreshing,” says Alex. “A new kitchen, a new space, and a new audience to look after - but still close to home. The South Causey team have been incredibly welcoming, and it’s allowed us to do something different without compromising what we care about.”
For Ally, the move has also opened up the story geographically. “We’ve always had such loyal guests, and we’re looking forward to seeing many of them again here,” she says. “But I think it will also introduce us to people who maybe felt Hjem was too far away.”
Far from a holding pattern, Ally and Alex are very much seeing the residency as a moment in its own right. New menus have been created specifically for South Causey, balancing familiarity with experimentation - including a long Sunday lunch menu which sounds very appealing.
“We’re very intentional about that,” Alex explains. “When we’re here, we’re here. We want this to be as good as it can be. Freyja is always happening in the background, of course - but our time here deserves its own energy.”
That said, Freyja represents a step-change in scale and ambition. Set within the restored Georgian Walled Garden at Close House, the restaurant-with-rooms will be Alex and Ally’s most expansive project to date - and, in Alex’s words, an opportunity to elevate everything they do.
“There are dishes that take an hour to get right,” he says. “And others that take a year - or longer. At Freyja, we’ll have a development kitchen where we can really explore ideas properly. That’s something we’ve never had before, and it opens up so many possibilities for the team.”
The new space will allow food development, staff training and creativity to sit side by side, alongside gardens that will feed directly into the menu. It’s an environment designed not just for service, but for thinking - a place where ideas can evolve without compromise.
“It feels like the natural next step,” Ally says. “Hjem was perfect for the time we were in. But we outgrew it. Freyja gives us the room to do what Alex wants to do now - and to do it properly.”
“Hjem taught us so much,” she continues. “About food, hospitality, people - and ourselves. We’re incredibly proud of what we achieved there. Now it’s about taking those lessons forward.”
Bookings are open for Restaurant Hjem at South Causey Inn and can be made via the website at southcausey.co.uk/hjem-at-south-causey-inn
To keep up to date with progress on Restaurant Freya, sign up to the newsletter at restaurantfreyja.com
This is such wonderful news! The best and the most enoyable meals I've ever had in my life were at Hjem, coupled with the most delightful and super-professional service. I'm looking forward eagerly to visiting these next two incarnations of the inspirational Alex and Ally journey...