Behind the seams: research reveals how Vivienne Westwood worked
Visitors to The Bowes Museum are invited to explore the thinking behind Westwood’s most iconic designs
Research from Northumbria University is offering fresh insight into the design process of Vivienne Westwood as part of a major exhibition at The Bowes Museum in Barnard Castle.
Displayed within Vivienne Westwood: Rebel – Storyteller – Visionary, the work explores the pattern cutting and construction techniques behind the designer’s garments, an area rarely examined in museum settings.
The research has been led by Emma Jane Goldsmith, who worked with original pieces from the collection of Peter Smithson to recreate patterns and produce calico toiles.
These are displayed alongside the finished garments, allowing visitors to understand how each piece was built.
Emma said: said: “To my knowledge, no one has ever communicated the cut and construction of Westwood like this.
“We are now beginning to see more digital communication of pattern cutting processes in major exhibitions, I believe this is so valuable for extending the knowledge and preservation of garments that are now rare and of historic importance.
“It has been a multi-faceted project to work on and manage, working within the Design School at Northumbria University enables me to include the support of many of our talented Technicians.
“Seeing this all come together in such a wonderful exhibition alongside the expertise of Peter, Rachel and all the team at The Bowes Museum is something I am hugely proud of.”
An accompanying animated film shows the transition from finished garment to flat pattern and back again, giving a step-by-step view of the process.
Peter Smithson said: “Vivienne’s approach to design and construction was as unique as she was. Each look represented a character, scene or moment; every detail had a purpose.
“Working with Emma Jane has brought a new dimension to these garments - her expertise has allowed us to share not just how they look, but how they live, breathe and move as works of construction.
“It was this multi-faceted approach to Vivienne’s design which made Westwood so magical to wear.”
The exhibition continues at The Bowes Museum until September 6, with the research forming a central part of how visitors engage with Westwood’s work. More details on the website.